Agreed, I would think anyone building a table would have the skill to press it n some bushings. But then again🤣
So has anyone used the drill guide? What did you think of it?
Were you able to check holes with calipers?
5/8 or 16mm is a far more common size for fixture table tooling. I was going to buy the template kit, but when i looked for the 3/4 or 19mm tooling I could only find it on fireballtool and even then it was still limited
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This is still my biggest fear about the plunge into a pair of 3/4" tables, but I’m betting on Jason and Fireball Tool being around and innovating for quite a while.
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@mRhAnKbOt Were not going anywhere. There’s already rumors of other table manufacturers getting into the 3/4 table game. I think they see the benefits over the 5/8, 16mm and 28mm.
I think they see 3/4 can replace all the sizes eventually.
I dunno, metric guys gonna metric. 
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@mRhAnKbOt The hole spacing on the table and fixtures is what needs to change. The hole diameter stays the same for metric table systems.
Metric Fireball tables are currently in production. 50mm hole spacing vs 2in
I suppose for the metric guys the 3/4" holes will be called 19mm and just round off the 0.05mm, it’s closer than 5/8" and 16mm and a lot of people treat that as basically interchangeable despite 2.5x the difference.
So Jason would you do me a favor when you have a min.
I think you have a 24" calipers, would you measure the hole placement accuracy on the table you used the drill guide?
If you have .750 or .749 gauge pin I would love to know how close the hole Diameter came out?
And how would you say the holes put in with the guide compare with the holes there were water jetted in?
One more thing , not knowing how flat the table was that you used the drill guide on, did you run into any holes that the cutter bound up in the guide, from the cutter not being perfectly parallel to the bushing?
Thank you for your time, and keep up the good work!
I wish I could. I sold the table. The holes were accurate. I tested the holes with the jig once I was done in the direction of travel by flipping the jig 90 degrees. A pin would drop in at both ends. It’s really good for a diy option. Is it as good as a dragon wagon? I’d say no,
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Thank you
Jason,
I am currently drilling a table using the drill guide. I am not able to turn the jig 90 degrees and get the pins in the ends. In 32” (16 rows) of holes, I am off by close to 1/16” . Any idea what is causing? If I am calculating correctly I am off by around .004” per row. Wondering if the vice grip clamps are pulling the jig slightly when clamping. Plan to try turning the jig 90degrees in center of table and drilling a row 6 holes or so to establish the spacing and then fill in and repeat. Appreciate any thoughts you might have.
Thanks,
Bryan
I would also be interested in a 5/8" version of the drill template.
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Hard to say what the problem is. How flat is your table. Any change in surface could change the hole location.
How thick is your table? What brand of annual cutter?
I started with the 4’X11’6” top that was already built - was salvaged from a fab shop. I manufactured and installed new legs. Purchased a drill jig and started drilling with a Hougen mag drill and annular cutters. Top is 3/4 plate welded to 1/4” plate. I did find a small wave in the top that I was able to cut loose and straighten. I believe Jason was correct that it was causing my hole spacing to get off. Wish I would have taken a picture but I had a skidsteer bucket entirely full of drill shavings from drilling all of the 3/4” holes. Overall pretty happy with accuracy - within 1/32” on diagonal measurement in 10’. Pretty major undertaking drilling the holes - 120 hours or so. Next time will buy one from Jason.
Bryan
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Looks good overall. Most people underestimate the time it takes to drill all those holes. This isn’t the first time I’ve heard that they wish they would have just bought a table and start making money with the time saved.
Cant believe you were able to hold 1/32 on the diagonals, that’s impressive!
You should be proud to have made that, bet your glad its done.
Why the 1/4" plate on the bottom? is that how you got it?
Yes, the top already had the 1/4” on it with the 3/4” plate on top of it. Made it an extra pain going through 2 layers with the annular cutter.
Wonder why they did it that way. Maybe so they could fasten it down and not interfere with the holes.
I am getting ready to replace my top and use a 2” grid. And would like to use 2” sq tube on the bottom but that will interfere with the hole. Have not decided what to do