Whats the best way to do this to improve flatness for a diy fixture table. The next step will be to order the fireball diy hole guide.
The top is 54” x 36” x 3/4” and it was flame cut to size so its not 100% perfect but its pretty good considering
Flame straightening, or make a frame that can bend and flex the plate into position. 3/4 plate is strong so it’s going to need to be a stout frame if that’s the route you decide. Or build the table then have it milled or Blanchard ground.
@Fireball_Jason Flame straightening is an art I haven’t mastered. The 2 x 2 x .120 tubing base might be sufficient for this except that I also built it so that the plate over hangs by 6” on the short sides and 7” on the long sides.
I do also have some 2 x 4 x .250 wall and some monster (7700 ish lb) bessey clamps that I might be able to use to take the crown out I could probably also use some heat to help it out.
Ideally I’d like to not have to pull the plate off to take it somewhere to get it machined/ground as it’s a bit of an effort to move 413 lbs of plate around without help or some sort of mechanical lifting device.
So I can bow it back the opposite way of the crown so that I can slide a piece of 1/4” under my level, but when I loosen the clamps off it goes back to being crowned in the center. The crown is also worse at one end of the plate then the other. I’m guessing it was cut towards where the crown is worse.
I’m thinking I should try some heat on the backside as I flex the crown out as it may relieve the residual stress from being flame cut.
