I’ve had this table for probably 15 years now and I love it, but it’s hard not to fantasize about having a fireball table with all the clamps I would love to convert this table somehow to use the fireball systems by either drilling holes or some other system. Not a huge fan of the T slots for clamping. It’s pretty thick, but I’ve considered a layout and drilling holes, but the table would be too thick to use the fireball system, but I could machine new pegs for the bottoms of clamps anyway just thought I would post this here and see if anybody had any ideas thanks for your time.
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What size are the current holes? This looks like the table off of an old planer milling machine.
The holes are 1.125. Buddy of mine has a bunch of these giant tables. They used to build machines for the Navy or I should say his father did and he’s an old-time himself.
Is there a brand or a makers mark on the table at all? also we have a 28mm(1.1") to 3/4" adapter that might work with your table and you can use some of our clamps and fixtures.
There aren’t any markings in the table unfortunately. The holes are around 2” deep I would have to measure them tho. Do the fireball clamps work by catching the bottom edge of the table when engaged? Just curious how it would work with such a deep hole. Thanks for the reply!
They bind in the hole so if you have a blind hole you might just have to vacuum out the hole occasionally, but most of the clamps and the single pin stops stops with the eccentric adapter or if your holes are on 4" centers you may be able to use the 28mm fence block.
Just ordered a 28mm clamp to try out.
The holes aren’t blind it’s a thick table! Always loosing small bits into the hole to the center of the hollow space in the table. Keep a long magnet handy. Gotta check the spacing when I get to the shop this morning would be amazing to be able to use some of the other fireball items
That table is pretty neat. Before drilling holes in it, I would see if I could overlay plates across it with the hole size and pattern you want. Depending on the spacing of the T-slots, it might be possible to take several of the Pro plates, and anchor them to the T-slots using spacers (1/2" or so), and use extra long set screws to adjust for flatness if needed. You’d have to drill the plates and use countersunk screws like are used on the X frame top plates, but it would leave your cool cast iron table unmodified.
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