Is it possible to drill holes in the cast iron monster square to enable it to be used with a fixture table?
Yes you can modify the the square to work on the fixture table if you desire.
Thanks for the reply!
Will the holes weaken the square or compromise its use in some other way? I guess it would be best to drill the holes with a drill press or mag drill to make sure the holes are perpendicular to the edge face.
Have you heard of anyone doing this to their squares?
Thanks.
Hi Scipiozhp,
I have wondered the same thing, as I have a selection of squares and am contemplating a proper fixturing table.
I suggested a video on the possible use of the squares on a fixture table to FB Tool and got a response that they would consider it.
Have you tried any square modification as of yet?
I was wondering about drilling and tapping holes to accommodate the dowel pins with the holes located in places that would benefit from the 2X2 fixture table grid pattern.
Cheers
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I have not tried to modify my fireball squares yet to accommodate my fixture table. I’m afraid of drilling holes into them for attachment to the table with fast clamping bolts, compromising them for future use. Not sure if drilling holes in them would weaken them.
I think a video on adapting them for fixture table use is a great idea - a sort of joining of old and new approaches.
Thanks for the interest!
I’ve checked most of my squares and nothing seems to be on a spacing multiple of 2" that would work, and the webbing seems too thin in any other spots.
I wonder if something like the swivel base for the pliers clamp could be made to work, or even better there could be an adapter base that works for the table spacing and has holes to mount squares to it (which would allow for correctly indexed alignment like the standard table fixtures), you wouldn’t have to clamp the square down that way.
The bases for the larger squares could even have toothed slots in them like the adjustable stops that use the toothed washers.
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Easiest way would be to just clamp the square down to the table
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Well sure, I can clamp anything I want to the table. It’d just be nice to not have to also use stops to align it and make sure it doesn’t shift.
Sort of a “while we’re at it” design update next time you revise or make new squares maybe.
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The squares were not designed for use on the fixture table. We have tooling designed for the table that have holes and slots.
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Fair enough, I think @Scipiozhp and I were just thinking that the squares can do the same job as the table fixtures for guys that have both if the squares had an easy way to be adapted. A megasquare could replace at least couple of fixture blocks in a setup, which could be especially useful for guys making the transition that don’t have dozens of fixture blocks already.
I think a plasma cut plate with a few drilled holes to mount the square, and a few drilled and tapped holes for 3/4 table pins for 90° and 45° orientation wouldn’t be too hard to put together. I may work on one while my thumb is healing and lifting heavy stuff isn’t easy.
OMG, sometimes you realize you’re thinking about things the hard way. The threaded edge alignment pins you sell already align it with a 1/2" offset, which is totally acceptable. Using this as an XY corner starting point immediately saves at least 2 fixture blocks for setup.
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What is the diameter of the pins?
It says they’re 5/8"
Those pins are sweet!
I was going to buy some but then I remembered
I have a sweet 15x30 lathe and made some
Just like it….but I’m still going to buy some
Because I need more, and it took me
Three hours to machine two.
Sooo three hours at $100 a hour maybe my time could be spent doing other things
Lol.
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Sure makes $2.50 each seem reasonable.
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I have 5/8 holes I’ll post a pic of them
4140 steel is what I made them out of
But wow a lot of work to make.
I’ll just buy the next ones lol
Wait a minute do the square taped holes line
Up with the table holes and the edge alinement
Pins fit in the table?!
If you have thumbscrew pins that come with the tabs, those are also 5/8 outer diameter although they are knurled.
The alignment pins in 1 or 2" length would have been the best bet.