Today, I’ll show you how to build this cool 36x24 DIY fixture table. We have other sizes, but the steps are the same for any.
Here is a link to the detailed video on assembling this DIY table kit.
First, unbox all your parts and make sure you have everything. This kit includes the legs and frame, though you can build your own if preferred.
The legs are coated with oil to prevent rust, so strip them. You’ll also need to clean the top before starting.
I use this heavy-duty floor stripper in a spray bottle. It will save you a lot of headaches in the future.
Next, get this plate level. We don’t want it twisting or cocked. We want it flat as possible on the saw horses. Use any level for this, and if needed, shim it up with folded paper or anything to make it sit neutral.
Now, let’s get our frame pieces. Here’s the frame location, and this is 1x2 tubing pre-sandblasted with no mill scale. We provide these for you or you can use your own.
The goal is to get the frame tacked and welded together using the fixture table plate for fixturing.
Your kit includes these clips that saddle over the top.
Next, put in all the fasteners: bolt, washer, and tighten them finger tight. Go along and put every single one in.
A note on the open end of the tube: we’ve left it open for two reasons. If you want to combine two tables, extend the tube with a longer piece. If you don’t plan on combining tables, you can cap it with metal or 3D print a cap. This is your table, You can decide on how creative you’ll want to be with the ribbing.
At this point, everything’s loose. This allows us to center the tube between the two holes. Before tightening, use a 1x4 Fireball fence block to set everything up. These fence blocks go in the hole to center the tube. Once aligned, snug them up lightly by hand —don’t use an impact wrench or a drill motor.
Once secure, go around the perimeter, tightening the rest. If the lengths need adjusting, mark and grind them down.
Now, we’re clamping everything down but won’t weld until the legs are on. The legs are 3x3 angle iron, cut to 33 inches. Here’s one thats already assembled and stands at 37.5 inches from floor to table plate. That’s a good standing height for this table. But for my application I want a sitting table, so we’ll cut the legs to 34-35 inches.
Lastly, we need feet for the legs. It’s easier to prep the feet before mounting the legs on the table. Our leg kit includes a supply of pads, a foot, and nuts.
We need to weld these nuts to the plate so the foot can function properly. If you want you can keep the pad how it is, but for my application, I don’t like the square look. So I’ll be griding to round the corners.
Now, weld the nut to the plate, centering it. Use a vise to hold it over the hole. Be careful not to over-weld the nut, or you’ll need to run a tap through it. Three good tacks are all you need.
Next, weld the foot to the bottom of the leg. I prefer the nut facing down for a cleaner look, but it’s your choice. I’m using a three-axis square for alignment—place the foot, clamp the leg, and adjust it until it looks good. I like a quarter-inch to 3/16" sticking out around the perimeter. Don’t over-weld; just weld these areas to avoid warping. Repeat this for all the legs.
Now, let’s mount the legs to the frame. You can mount them inside, outside, or on top. I prefer mounting them on top for a cleaner look and to avoid obstructing the hole. Leave the welds on the inside for a smooth transition. Take extra care here—if the legs are crooked, the table will look unprofessional.
You can use a level to ensure alignment and tack the legs in place. However, I find this to be a slow process.
To speed things up, I’m using the three-axis square again. Clamp the leg, center it, and it’s perfectly aligned. Weld in place—just two welds per leg. It’s fast and precise.
For the legs, you can use the 1-inch angle iron to brace them.
It’s optional, but I’m adding a three-sided leg brace to keep the table sturdy. The height should be adjusted for comfort, ensuring you can run a broom under it. For this sitting desk, I’m adding a short shelf for tools. You can choose to add a shelf, angle iron up or down, or leave it out—this is your table.
I’m choosing to have this angle iron measure up 10 inches for the shelf. You can move the legs in or out to adjust if needed.
Ensure the leg distances are the same at the top and bottom—take the time to make adjustments if necessary. Once aligned, tack the braces in place.
Now, we’re adding a crossbar for stability. Don’t place it too low—this might bump your knees if you’re sitting. I’m positioning it about 4 inches from the side, then tacking it into place.
Once the frame is welded, you can choose to wipe the dirt from the metal and do the painting process. I used a primer and then I used Satin Pimento for my finish look.
Now you can add the footpad. if they don’t thread through run a tap through it.
Before welding the frame to the plate, check that everything is aligned. The plate weighs about 100 pounds, so having two people lifting it to set it on top will help.
Attach the clips loosely, then install the grub screws to secure the frame. Don’t over-tighten—just start them. You’ll be using a 3/16" hex key for these grub screws.
Use a straight edge to check the alignment and make sure the plate is level. If needed, adjust using the grub screws to shim the frame. You’ll be using a 3/16" hex key for these grub screws.
Once it’s aligned using the fence block again, tighten the clips lightly. You don’t need to go crazy with the impact gun—just hold the plate down. The center clips can stay loose for now.
Once everything’s set, use a straight edge again to check if the plate’s flat and level. Tighten the clips as needed.
Now we can install our little plywood shelf.
For leveling, you can use leveling feet to adjust. Hand-tighten them and lock them in place once everything’s leveled.
Finally, for my application I’m going to add the 3D-printed tube caps at the end of the tubes. These are available as an STL file on our website.
The table looks great and solid. It’s also perfect for standing or sitting. A bonus tip to remember is if the top plate gets damaged, you can flip it over and use the other side.
Now we can add clamps, tooling, and other cases underneath our shelf.
With this DIY Table, you are now ready to build with Fireball tool fixtures. Thanks for following along. If you have any questions about the DIY fixture table, feel free to contact us on this forum. We’re happy to help!
