I see that the inside holes are also chamfered on the Dragon Wagon tables, which seems like it could help with centering when connecting two or more tables. Does Fireball Tool sell specific connecting bolts like I have seen from the competition?
Any owners out there, how have you connected your tables?
I see the spot in the middle for a 5th leg, what configuration would use that?
Or was it just convenient to add it to the design, just in case it might come in handy?
The center bolt pattern is for a pedestal mount if you desire.
I used 2 shoulder bolts and 4 grade 8 flange bolts for the bolting, and clamped 4x1 steel bars to the table to align all the edges before torquing them tight.
I’m interested in the cable train you have on your Crossfire pro.
@mRhAnKbOt Thanks for sharing how you did it. I hadn’t thought about using shoulder bolts.
Also thanks @Fireball_Jason for clarifying the pedestal mounting option
Bought the drag chain off Amazon. You can buy them in all sorts of sizes. I think I may have done a writeup on it on the Langmuir forum back when I did it. It may be under a generic mods thread I started for my table.
What size of shoulder bolts did you end up needing? I found these on the fireball tools site. It says these are for mating to the tables and compatible with both 5/8" & 3/4" tables. However, they are 5/8" diameter so I wouldn’t think these would keep it locked in and flush/level for a 3/4" table.
Perhaps, if the shoulder length is slightly shorter than the length needed to go through both holes of the tables, could it be done with just shoulder bolts? I don’t have my tables yet so I can’t check the measurements.
I also saw in one of his videos, he mentioned using his tack bolts for doing that but those are pretty expensive just for combining tables.
A few simple 3/4 shoulder bolts is all that you need to bolt the tables together permanently. Regular hex fasteners are fine also. The tack bolts are great for a temporary setups.
Makes sense. What length for the shoulder & overall length? I would check but I don’t have mine yet and I’d like to make sure I have them ready to go when they arrive. 
I used two 3/4x1.25" shoulder bolts if I remember correctly (1.25" shoulder length, thread lengths are standardized), as well as four fine thread grade 8 3/4" bolts, and 3/4" washers since the castings are somewhat rough on the inside of the flanges. That seemed to help everything seat and torque down fully. Nothing has shifted on me yet, but I haven’t abused it either. Based on my experience though, I’m as likely to crack the casting before the bolts let anything slip out of alignment.
Yes 1 1/4 shoulder bolt works well with washers. A 2 1/2 or 3 in hex bolts work also. The Dragon Wagons are close to 5/8 thick rib thickness.
I even measured mine at a tad over 5/8" thick up higher where the holes are, around .635" at the bottom of the holes on my tables. That’s going to vary a bit from table to table.
Closer to .590" at the bottom edge of the side skirts.
Those are for bolting fixtures to the table and keeping the face of the bolt sub-flush. I have a pair and the head/tiny lip isn’t anywhere near robust enough to bolt tables together.
I just recently got a 2 x 3 dragon wagon with 4 legs and the caster wheels. I want to buy another 2 x 3 dragon wagon to set it up as a 4 x 3 table. Is it recommended to use 8 legs for this set up? Or can I simply buy just the top and use my 4 legs on the outside corners and connect the two with shoulder bolts in the middle? Would this cause sagging in the middle? or is there a way to out a middle leg in the middle of that table set up somehow? obviously I could fabricate something to accommodate this myself, however I feel like I cannot be the only one to want to do this set up.
4 legs are just fine. You won’t have a problem. Just use some 4-5 3/4 bolts to bolt them together.
I’ve still not had an issue with my 2 2’x3’ tables bolted into an L shape and only using 4 legs. As an added bonus with a tower block I can fixture 80% of the stuff a 5’x3’ table can.
